This is part 1 in a series of posts about the ways Brazil has marked me forever over these past 7 years. Read the introduction here.

We just returned from spending half of Carnaval week at the beach, so I’m feeling the beach glory right now. That’s where I’ll start.


You know how in English we say “Happy Friday!” or “Merry Christmas”? Well, Brazilians tend to wish you well on more than just holidays or Fridays. This is actually a great way to give you a window into some of the friendliest and happiest people on the planet. Brazilians wish others well and celebrate a variety of occasions (more to come on that in a future post), and you feel sort of bathed in good vibes. Yes, the French may have invented “bon apetite,” which Brazilians also say, but why not wish fellow humans well no matter what they are doing?
When you go to the beach, people will wish you a “Boa praia” (BOH-ah PRIGH-ah) which is like saying “Happy beaching!” or “We wish you a merry beach day.” Honestly, it’s like saying “Good morning.” Beaches here are a way of life, a temple, a sanctuary. And wishing someone a good day at the beach is just about the best way to show your kindness.
The beach is deeply significant in Brazil for many reasons. First, because the Portuguese were the first European settlers in Brazil, and they were master navigators. Here’s a great way to illustrate this: you know the ukulele? That is an instrument brought to Hawaii by the Portuguese. They brought a similar instrument to Brazil (the cavaco) and they also spread that same instrument to Indonesia, the kroncong! The Portuguese got around, and they got there by sailing. Magellan was Portuguese, and although he’s the most famous Portuguese navigator, he was just the big name among a slew of sailors.
Then you have to consider the 5 million Africans brought forcibly across the Atlantic ocean to Brazil. The enslaved Africans were forced to be baptized and had to officially be Christian, but they melded and merged West African religions and gods with the Catholic trinity and saints in what is called syncretism. Many of the Afro-Brazilian syncretic religions (candomblé, for example) have a strong link to the ocean. Iemanjá (yeh-mahn-ZHA) is the queen of the ocean and goddess of fresh and salt water. She also gets linked to or blened with Mary, as the symbolic mother. Many of the rituals in Afro-Brazilian religions involve the ocean, honoring the passage of the enslaved people and looking toward Africa, and Iemanjá is often featured.
On New Year’s Eve, the tradition in Brazil is to jump over seven ocean waves and make a wish for each one. Here, the ocean provides.
Regardless of their heritage or religious affiliation, Brazilians love to go the beach. When we first moved here, I don’t think I really got it. People kept talking about going to the beach. I went to the beach in North Carolina each summer, and I loved it, but it seemed different here. First of all, people don’t just go once a year. The Litoral Norte (north coast) of São Paulo is only 2 and a half to 3 and a half hours away. Many people go as often as they can, on long weekends and then on week-long in the summer holidays.
Brazilian beaches prioritize joy and comfort. There are usually roads along the beach with houses and small hotels. Beaches are pretty hopping here. They aren’t exclusive or deserted like beaches can be where the only properties along the ocean are giant spaced-out mansions. People drive in for day, drive in from other areas.

On the beach, there are barracas (bah-HA-kahs, food and drink stands) that will rent you chairs and umbrellas. I was worried that these would be crazy expensive like we found when we stayed in Florida. But the cost of renting the umbrellas is low, and the rental cost is waived if you buy food and drinks from stand.


Our generally pattern is to get to the beach around 9:30 or 10 am. We get our two umbrellas and five chairs set up by the beach. We start with cold coconuts hacked open with a machete.

Then we order 2 or 3 plates of corn, freshly boiled and sliced off the cob, with salt and butter. Listen, I’m from corn country, USA, so this isn’t Ohio sweet corn, but it’s still tasty. It’s a bit chewier and a bit less sweet, but no complaints here.


Next up we order our first caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail. It’s made with cachaça, a whole cut up and muddled lime, sugar and ice. You have to go slow with caipis. We order the kids fresh muddled lemonades.


Our favorite beach in Brazil is Juquehy. It’s about 3 hours away with no traffic. The beach is wide and flat.


The waves are great for kids to jump in and boogie board on. They can walk into the water a long way before it gets up to their armpits. There are life guards up and down the beach.






All day long, vendors walk up and down the beach. You can buy popsicles, açai with fruit and all kinds of toppings, grilled meats and cheeses on sticks, beach clothing like coverups and dresses, jewelry, sand toys and beach games, hammocks, paintings on unmounted canvases, woven blankets, cashews, keychains…really, anything you might want to buy, you can buy without ever getting out of your beach chair. You flag down who you want and pay with the credit card machines they carry with them. The whole world comes to you.





Sometimes we will order lunch from people who grill things on sticks. You can get steak, chicken or sausage on a stick, cheese on a stick (think a fresh, squeaky cheese), or garlic bread. We like our açai with bananas, strawberries and granola. Other times we will order from the barraca (food stand) that we are renting our chairs from. They will have a menu of food that is coming from a kitchen on land. We usually get fried fish strips, fries, fried calamari, pasteis de queijo (a cheese stuffed pastry that is, you got it, deep fried) and sometimes linguiça com cebola (sausage with onions).



Other days we might go sit at a restaurant that is on the beach and order from their menu. You never have to travel far. Our favorite in Juquei is Badaué.



They do a clericot com frutas that consists a big pitcher filled with fruit that they pour champagne over.



This last trip we did we splurged and let the kids have two popsicles a day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. Since we are leaving and getting rid of most of our stuff, I didn’t buy anything else, but I have bought blankets, beach cover ups, sand toys, a volleyball, and jewelry among other things.
(We went to an island off of Salvador, Bahia called Morro de São Paulo and there was a woman who sold drinks out of pineapple. She carved out the inside of the pineapple and blended it into the drink, then poured the whole thing back into the pineapple. It was amazing, despite Calvin’s face below drinking a non-alcholic version.)

The kids alternate between swimming, playing in the sand, and reading in a chair. When Everett was little, he would say, “I’m tired, I want to take a nap” and we’d lay his beach chair flat or spread a towel out, and he’d conk out in the shade for a 2 hour nap. It was awesome.


o Paulo in 2019



We also like to play a beach racquet ball game called frescobol. I just googled the translation only to learn that it was invented here in Brazil in the 50’s!
The sun is intense, so you really have to keep up with the sunscreen if you have pale skin like us. We’ve got our reply routine pretty solid, and Calvin can do his own sunscreen now (mostly), so we make it work. Everyone brings a wide brim hat and we have swim shirts available if anyone gets too much sun.
Every person you interact with at the beach, rather than saying good bye or thanks or have a nice day, says boa praia. Have a good beach. Oh, it is so good. We stay out from 9 or 10 am until 4 or 5 pm. The kids play and play. We eat and swim and play games. We read and rest and stare at the ocean. The soul is truly purified and renewed.
I run on the beach in the morning before we go out for the day, and it’s gorgeous. On this last trip of ours, I put on a play list of samba classics. This one came up and it felt perfect:
The song title is “O Mar Serenou” which means the ocean calmed down, but the song is often referred to by its chorus: Quem Samba na Beira do Mar, É Sereia, which means anyone who dances samba by the sea is a mermaid.
Portuguese lyrics | English translation |
O mar serenou quando ela pisou na areia Quem samba na beira do mar é sereia O pescador não tem medo É segredo se volta ou se fica no fundo do mar Ao ver a morena bonita sambando Se explica que não vai pescar Deixa o mar serenar O mar serenou quando ela pisou na areia Quem samba na beira do mar é sereia A lua brilhava vaidosa De si orgulhosa e prosa com que deus lhe deu Ao ver a morena sambando Foi se acabrunhando então adormeceu o sol apareceu O mar serenou quando ela pisou na areia Quem samba na beira do mar é sereia Um frio danado que vinha Do lado gelado que o povo até se intimidou Morena aceitou o desafio Sambou E o frio sentiu seu calor e o samba se esquentou O mar serenou quando ela pisou na areia Quem samba na beira do mar é sereia A estrela que estava escondida Sentiu-se atraída depois então apareceu Mas ficou tão enternecida Indagou A si mesma a estrela afinal será ela ou sou eu O mar serenou quando ela pisou na areia Quem samba na beira do mar é sereia | The sea calmed down when she stepped on the sand Anyone who dances samba by the sea is a mermaid The fisherman is not afraid It is a secret whether he returns or stays at the bottom of the sea Upon seeing the beautiful brunette dancing samba He explains that he is not going fishing Let the sea calm down The sea calmed down when she stepped on the sand Anyone who dances samba by the sea is a mermaid The moon shone proudly Proud of herself and the prose with which God gave her Upon seeing the brunette dancing samba She became overwhelmed and fell asleep when the sun appeared The sea calmed down when she stepped on the sand Anyone who dances samba by the sea is a mermaid A damn cold that was coming From the icy side that even the people were intimidated The brunette accepted the challenge Samba And the cold felt her heat and the samba warmed up The sea calmed down when she stepped on the sand Anyone who dances samba by the sea is a mermaid The star that was hidden She felt attracted and then she appeared But she was so moved She asked She was the star, after all, is it her or me The sea calmed down when she stepped on the sand Anyone who dances samba by the sea is a mermaid |


PS: Wanna see Everett in various sand trances? (Note: he’s awake in all these pictures)










PPS: Matilda making poses, most recent to oldest







Finally, PPPS: Our family reading on the beach (my personal dream: where we got to the beach and we all just swim and read)




